Make-Up Artist Mark O'Neill

1900

Viewed as the sole preserve of prostitutes and music–hall performers, make-up is such a taboo in Victorian society that a man can divorce his wife for wearing it. Extravagant hair arrangements are, however, considered very attractive. French hairdresser Marcel Grateau introduces his famous wave, designed to make the hair look like a rippling sheet of silk. Cologne is accepted as a healthy adornment for the senses, though vanity is generally frowned on.

1910s

Whereas cosmetics had previously been sold 'under the counter', the decision of Selfridges department store in London to sell powder and rouge openly proves hugely popular with women, though not with men. As the suffragette movement struggles to win the vote, they also fight for the right to look as they please and wear red lipstick as a symbol of feminine defiance. The work of women during World War I soften MPs' opposition and the right to vote is won – only for women aged 30 and over – in 1918.

1920s

Liberated for the first time, women feel free to experiment, eschewing the discreet and natural look for daring styles. One of these is 'la garonne', a masculine look inspired by the heroine of Victor Margueritte's scandalous novel of the same name and typified by short hair and vampy make-up. Stylish women begin plucking their eyebrows and wearing kohl around the eyes. Applying the new twist-up lipstick in public is the ultimate fashion statement. Coco Chanel falls asleep in the sun and inadvertently establishes the must-have beauty accessory of the century – the tan.

Women during the 1920's tried to achieve an oriental doll look with their pale skin and done up eyes.

Flappers and the Roaring Twenties

Up until this point in history, nice girls wore long hair and very little makeup. Then the 20's roared onto the scene and changed all that. Hair was chopped to the chin and makeup applied generously. Women's lib gained momentum and gave rise the Flapper Girl, liberated in education, behavior, dress, makeup and more boy-like in many respects. Suddenly girls were partying, smoking and (gasp!) even applying makeup in public.

1920's Flapper Girl Hair Styles

The favored cut of this decade was the super short bob cut. Only to be outdone in shortness by Eton Crop, where hair was cut very short and close to the head, then slicked back with hair oil to complete the boy-look. Finger waves and pin curls also found their way into fashion at this time.

1920's Flapper Makeup

Women used rice powder to achieve the deathly white skin. It contrasted nicely with the deep blood red lipstick women wore. Eyebrows at the time were terribly thin and often removed then redrawn even higher. To make up the complete the look, an early version of eyeliner containing soot, lead and goose grease was used to make the eyes stand out further.

Makeup tips for the 1920's flapper look

To achieve that Flapper look, start by powdering down your face to get a few shades paler than normal. Then using a black eyeliner pencil, line the top and bottom lids heavily, making sure to continue the line a little past the outer corner of each eye to give yourself Asian-like eyes. Finally, apply deep blood red lipstick.

Hair tips for the Roaring Twenties

To give yourself Marcelled finger waves, start with wet hair with lots of gel. Using a rat tail comb and your fingers, create "C" shaped ridges around your head, starting on one side and ending on the other. Allow your hair to dry.

Flapper Fashion Icons

Women of the silver screen were the style stars of the day

• Greta Garbo - she owned the soft look of full femininity and captivation
• Louise Brooks - known for her distinctive bob cut that resembled a black helmet
• Claudette Colbert - exuded feminine allure and glamour staring opposite Clark Gable
• Clara Bow - women imitated her ghostly-white skin, blood red lips and heavily made-up eyes

1930s

Cinema, now the most popular medium of news and entertainment, not only brings the world to our doorsteps but the first screen celebrities, too. Hollywood sets standards for beauty, and everyone wants to look like movie idols. And every movie idol wants to have their look tailor-made by Max Factor, Hollywood's leading make-up artist, who is quick to pick up on the potential of celebrity endorsement. Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein also establish popular cosmetic ranges. Despite the Depression, lipstick remains affordable and, to glamour-starved women, essential, and sales remain high.

1940s

World War II has a dramatic effect on women's position in society. The absence of men forces them to step into traditional male roles at home and at work. Fabrics are scarce, and the austere mood is reflected in practical clothes in muted shades. Max Factor introduces stocking cream in response to shortages. Make-up fulfils an important role as an instant feminiser and affordable morale booster, and is even produced in shades to match air-raid shelters and gas masks. Red lipstick is seen as a symbol of patriotism, as women defy hardship by maintaining their appearance.

Women took the romantic look of their soft curls and pulled them back into rolls for their day jobs as Rosie the Riveter.

The Swing Lifestyle: Make up and Hair tips from the 1940's

With the men off at war, women were pressed to take on a new role, beyond wife and homemaker. For the sake of their nation, women joined the workforce. At the time, women weren't ready to give up their femininity for hard labor. Instead they compromised by simplifying their romantic look for daytime.

They were hard-working women supporting their country day. By evening, they transformed into the movie stars they saw on the silver screen, with a softer look.

Hairstyles of the Swing Era

Their day jobs working with machinery required women to wear their hair rolled back neatly around the neck or over the ears. They would often cover their heads with a scarf knotted at the front leaving the fringe exposed. Another popular option was to put the hair rolls in a hairnet affectionately called a "rat". The evening allowed for a bit more freedom. Feminine romantic styles reigned with soft curls falling onto shoulders, inspired by Hollywood starlets.

1940's Makeup Trends

Women of the swing era wore warm foundation topped with light powder to help it set. Their lips were a true red with the top lip overdrawn and rounded. Eyebrows went back to their natural thickness but were carefully prune into nice clean arches. Eye shadow had neutral tones for the day and jewel tones of dark blue or green for the night. Mascara became important for the starlet look. Blush, called rouge, was bright and applied high on the cheekbone and blended toward the temple.

How to apply makeup in the 40's swing style

lips with pure red lip color, overdrawing the top lip slightly, so it's a little rounded. Fill in with same red lip color. Use a small amount of blush in a strong bright color and blend towards the temples. Add loose powder on top to soften the look.

How to style hair for the 1940's look

To get that swing-style hair, start by parting your hair on the side. Now, create medium-sized rolls in your hair by first dampening your hair. Working from back to front, roll hair up into curlers. Once your hair dries, comb out curls and cover with gentle hold hairspray. Take ends of curls and tuck under, securing each with bobby pins. Once the rolls are complete, you can tie them in a scarf or put them back in a hair net.

Style Icons of the Swing Era

Most women looked to the big-screen for inspiration. Here are a few women who set the tone for this decade.

• Betty Grable - movie starlet and number 1 pin-up girl
• Rita Hayworth -1940's sex-symbol and ultimate femme fatale with bombshell status
• Veronica Lake - women everywhere were imitating her signature peek-a-boo bang
• Lauren Bacall - known for her "come hither" eyes

1950s

An explosion of colour – in everything from films and furniture to clothes and make-up – epitomises post-war optimism. There is a renewed emphasis on the family. A shortage of men encourages women to try to look as beautiful as possible in the hope of 'catching' a husband. As women return to domestic duties, technological advances result in a whole host of new labour-saving devices for the home, giving them more time to pamper themselves. A boom in the luxury beauty industry – led by Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein – ensues. Avon calls for the first time, and the door-to-door cosmetics rep remains the bored housewives' best friend for the next 20 years.

Pale skin and thick, dark eyebrows were the fashion in the 1950s.

Poodle skirts and ponytails

As the men came back from the war, home-life became an important part in people's lives. Especially for women, who went back to the domestic matters and became the domestic goddess. Not only accomplishing all the chores, but looking glamorous while doing it. It was the era when women strutted around in high heels, dresses and perfectly done-up hair, while doing the dishes.

50s Hairstyles

Throughout the decade there was a transformation from the simple ponytail to the beehive. The permanent wave, a la Elizabeth Taylor was in vogue at the height of the decade. Hairdressing became a big business as hair lacquer sprays and plastic rollers enabled women to grow their ponytails into taller and more complex hairstyles.

50s Make up

To go with that cute poodle skirt, the face projected a warm, peachy complexion. Eyebrows were grown out, thick and dark. The eye shadow was worn past the eyelid in shades of green and blue. Mascara went on thick as did eyeliner in black or dark browns. Cheeks were soft and rosy, with blush blended towards the temples. Rosy red or pink lipstick finished the look.

How to apply 50s makeup

To get that warm 50s makeup look, start by applying a soft pinkish-brown powder blush to your cheeks and blend up to your temples. Starting at the lash line, blend a light brown shadow all the way to the crease. Use a highlighter on your brow bone. Using a black liner, draw a thick line from the inner corners to a little past the outer corner. Put dark brown powder eye shadow over the eyeliner to soften the effect. Then use a white or skin-toned pencil to pine the inside of your eyes. Apply a neutral color lip liner and a neutral color creamy lipstick.

How to style hair for the 1950s

Transform your ponytail into the beehive look. Start by applying setting lotion to damp hair. Then roll hair into large curlers. Once the hair is dry and set, begin teasing hair using the "backcomb" method. Lifting sections near the crown, brush them smooth, then brush back down towards the hair shafts. Spray with some hairspray and move on to the next section. Continue until the top of your head is covered with backcombed tufts standing on end. Using a brush, smooth the top hair back over the backcombing. Get the loose hairs on the sides with hairpins or a ribbon. Complete with generous helping of hairspray.

1950s Style Icons

Many trendsetters came from the movies and popular music

• Marilyn Monroe - men wanted to date her, women wanted to look like her
• Elizabeth Taylor - everyone wanted those dark eyebrows and dramatic eyes
• Dusty Springfield - her bouffant and heavy eye makeup lead the way

1960s

Elizabeth Taylor stars in Cleopatra, setting off an outrageous new fashion trend of 'Cleopatra eyes', where kohl pencil lines are dramatically extended. Make-up trends become even more exaggerated as 'Swinging London' style kicks in. The model Twiggy epitomises the look. The emphasis remains on the eyes, with false eyelashes being cited as a must-have item by fashion pioneer Mary Quant, whose hair is fashioned into the revolutionary five-point 'bob' by Vidal Sassoon. Meanwhile, pale lips in pearlescent hues are influenced by the genesis of space travel. Diana Ross and the Supremes define the cool, elegant style of young, black America celebrated in the first black beauty magazine, Ebony.

Flower Power reigned supreme and long free-swinging hair became the signature look.

The Swinging 60s: Flower Power and Mod Fashion

As women went back to the workforce or to get an education, they needed less time-consuming beauty rituals. For that reason, they chose more practical hairstyles. And complimented them with a fresh-face. The look of the 60s was clean, uncomplicated and in a word, modern.

Flower Power Sixties Hairstyles

Straight hair was in. Sometimes long, sometimes as short as the bob cut from the 1920s. It was simple, pulled back and curled into a bun or coiled and pinned in place. The bouffant was a popular �do at the time. This style involved sweeping the hair up and piling it high on top of the head, often in curls and garnished with ribbons or barrettes.

Makeup for Mod Fashion

Foundation was matte and slightly tan to make up for the lack of blush. Lips were left nude, covered with foundation or in shimmering, metallic shades. With the landscape of the face being so pale, eyes became the main focus. Mascara was applied so thick that the lashes looked spiky like false eyelashes. And the fake lashes that women wore were coated with an additional layer of mascara. Eyeliner, called kohl, was generously applied all the way around the eye. And to complete the look, bluish-green eye shadow was swept all the way up to the brow bone for the look of big eyes.

How to apply makeup for 60s fashion

To achieve the mod makeup look, start with a pale foundation. Apply that all over your face, including on your lips. Next, use black eyeliner to line top and bottom lids. Then, glue on fake eyelashes, coating them with a few more layers of mascara. Then cover the entire lid with blue-green eye shadow up to the browbone. Finish with a pale lipstick or white if you can find it.

How to style hair like a lady of the 60s

To get that mod 60s hair style, start by separating part of your hair in front for thick bangs. Then divvy up the rest of your hair into three sections, starting midway towards the back of your head. Using 2 inch curlers, roll your hair away from face. Separate the leftover hair into four sections, and continue rolling in the same direction. Leave rollers until hair is set.

Release hair from rollers and brush up all around the head, teasing hair across the top for height. Secure hair just behind the crown. Separate it in two sections and tie in a loose knot, pinning in place along the way. The two ends are then arranged in loose curls down one side.

Style Icons for the Flower Power and the 60s

Trendsetters in this era tended to be models and actresses, with a few exceptions.

• Twiggy - known for her alluring false eyelashes
• Edie Sedgwick - the "it" girl of the time, with her dark black kohl eyeliner
• Audrey Hepburn - every one wanted to be her in Breakfast at Tiffany's
• Jackie Kennedy - made the bouffant hairdo popular

1970s

In an era of increased political activity, the women's liberation movement emerges, generating a backlash against the concept of prettying oneself to please men. Women also realise that the beauty industry is governed by and perpetuated by men, and eschew the defiant lipstick-wearing of their suffragette sisters to denounce make-up and embrace the natural look. The publication of Germaine Greer's The Female Eunuch inspires an anti-establishment look. Boiler suits are donned, bras are burned and women stop shaving their armpits and legs. Despite the growing assertion of black culture – symbolised by the popularity of the Afro hairstyle – major cosmetics companies continue to ignore the need for a beauty range suited to darker skins. Iman, a Somali-born diplomat's daughter, becomes the first black supermodel.

A new pride in natural hair made the Afro a very popular hairstyle.

Disco Styles and the 1970s

The social movements of the 60's gave way to the flower children and hippies of the early 1970s. There was a new respect for the environment and being all natural. Beauty followed suit and left the pale vamp look for something more sun-kissed and healthy. The surfers of Venice beach embodied the look that people wanted.

Women everywhere spent all morning trying to attain that no fuss, fresh, all natural look. By the end of the decade the Disco inferno was burning, and "natural" hair took hours to style.

1970 disco hair styles

Hair was long, smooth and very straight. Another popular �do was made famous by Farrah Fawcett. There was a center part with "wings" of layered hair flicks on the sides of the head. This new natural look often took hours to achieve with the curling iron, hairspray, mouse and the avoidance of anything athletic, outdoorsy or in nature, lest the hair got damaged. Other styles included Afro perms, which only required washing and forking with a special lifting and separating comb.

1970s makeup

Soft, fresh and natural look were fashionable. Women used fake tans and bronzers to pose as sun worshippers. Eye makeup lightened up and mascara almost completely disappeared. White or pale blue eyeliner became popular, as did pearlescent colors for eye shadow, nail polish and lipstick. Foundation was rarely used, and when it was, it wasn't matted down with powder but left alone to shine a little.

Makeup Tips for the 1970 disco look

A key tip for disco era makeup is to skip the foundation. People were natural back then. Start by lining your eyes with black liner on the top and bottom lids, extending the line a little passed the outer edge. Then apply a deep royal purple eye shadow to the entire lid. Accentuate the brow bone with a shimmery white eye shadow. Next, paint on several coats of mascara to your lashes until you get that spidery look. Now, line your lips with a nude lip liner and fill in with lip gloss. Finish with a bronzer blush powder.

How to do Disco Hair

To create a 70s disco hair style, it helps to already have long-layered hair. Start by applying mousse to wet hair, covering it from root to end. Flip upside down and blow dry. Use a flat iron and clamp it onto your hair, close to the roots. Pull the iron downwards towards the ends till about four inches from the end. Then, turn the flat iron upward, creating a bend in the hair. Continue until you have a lot of flicks around your face. Finish with a light flexible hair spray.

1970s Style Icons

These women weren't only famous for defining the 70s but also went on to influence women of future decades.

• Farrah Fawcett - known for her feathered, flicked hair
• Cher - immortalized the long, super straight hair that everyone wore
• Jane Fonda - who could forget her in Barbarella

1980s

Materialism and consumerism are the buzzwords and a super-glam look personifies the get-rich-quick philosophy of the times. Vanity is celebrated and decadent; expertly applied make-up symbolises the high-maintenance grooming of the trophy wife. The 'Princess Di' becomes the most popular hairstyle of the decade. Paradoxically, the increasing profile of animal rights groups highlights the vivisection inherent in the survival of the cosmetics industry. Growing consumer unease is appeased by The Body Shop. Founder Anita Roddick's aim of sourcing cruelty-free and natural ingredients from ancient cultures and threatened communities, while highlighting global issues, proves that conscience shopping can be a commercial winner.

80's punk fashion took over the scene along with the big hair of metal bands.

80s Fashion Trends: Make Up and Beauty Tips

During this decade, there were more women in the workforce than ever. And as men began adopting the power suit for work wear, women came up with a powerful look of their own to show men that they were equals in the office. The big-shouldered suits, strong makeup and big hair of 80s women's fashion said it all women wanted to be taken seriously.

80s Hair Styles

Back in the day, all you needed was mousse, gel, hairspray and a good brush. With these tools you could easily tease your hair to the edge of oblivion, which is what women did. Whether your hair style was long or short, flat hair was a sin. Along with big teased hair, hair flicks from the 70s were still popular as a method for adding volume. The slicked bob was also in style. That involved a long bob combed forward with a defined back neck contour. It was often called the Purdy Haircut. Blow drying and finger-shaping individual strands with wax was also popular. Taking a cue from 80s punk fashion, hair also became choppy and off-colored.

80's Makeup

What went well with all that big hair? Big makeup, of course. Eyes were dark and dramatic with the help of many layers of eyeliner and bold eye shadow in bright shades of blue, green and purple. For lips, women favored colors that popped, like tomato red. And what drama-loving era would be complete without mica. This was a metallic powder that became popular for use on eyelids and everywhere else on the body for that extra shimmer.

How to apply makeup for that 80s look

To get your 80s makeup look, start by lining your eyelids with black eyeliner. Then apply lots of bright green or blue eye shadow to the entire eyelid, from brow line to lid line. Top it off with a stroke of bright blush brushed along your cheekbones. And finally, finish off with bright red, almost orange colored lipstick.

Here's how to style hair in the 80s fashion

Most 80's hair styles rely on mousse, and lots of it. After washing your hair with shampoo and conditioner, apply gel or mousse, starting at the roots and working downward. Then blow dry your hair, using a brush to get to layers underneath. Next. starting at the top and front of your hair, take 1 inch sections at a time and spray. Hold on to the tips of your hair and comb down the first two or three inches of hair back towards the scalp. Continue section by section until you've worked through the whole head. Then hairspray all over and finger style.

80s Fashion Icons

There are certain people who come to mind when you think of the style of the 80s. Here are a few:

• Madonna - of course, the original Material Girl
• Princess Diana - she sported her own version of the Purdy Haircut
• Cyndi Lauper - always put her personal spin on the punk look
• The women of the Dynasty and Dallas - they had their own following of big haired women

1990s

Consumers become increasingly sophisticated. A desire to enhance one's natural beauty with lighter, less visible formulas results in a scientific approach to cosmetics that appeals to users. Cosmetics no longer just cover-up but are 'light-reflecting' and 'wrinkle-defying', too. The battle to rid the body of cellulite with expensive creams and body-toners dominates, while the growing interest in celebrity looks sees top make-up artists such as Bobbi Brown launching highly successful independent ranges. Supermodel Iman, frustrated by the appalling lack of ranges to suit women of colour, succeeds with her own make-up line. Meanwhile, Isabella Rossellini, famously dumped by Lancome for being too old at 43, launches her own Manifesto range, designed to suit women of all ages.

Face-framing long hair was the style back in the 90s.

1990s and the Grunge Movement

Anti-fashion and individuality were the big trends for the 90s. Women sought to move away from looking like everyone else and grunge moved hair and makeup towards minimalist styles, with fashions overlapping and contradictions everywhere. Styling yourself was favored over trying to be in the style of one particular designer.

Hair of the 90s

Blonde hair was a favorite in the 1990s. Long hair was cut into layers with face-framing fringe and highlighted in multi-tones. A style that made it big was called the "Rachel" cut, named after Jennifer Aniston's character on Friends. Grunge girl hairstyles were choppy with a look that was an intentional case of bed-head. For once, it was cool to have messy hair. People tried their best to look as though they'd put less than zero effort into their hair with the help of gels, mousse and hairspray.

Make up for the 1990s

Foundation was matte and understated. Dark eyeliner was favored, but for the most part, brown and gray neutral eye shadows were used for the eyes. Cheeks were peachy colored. Lipstick with an orange undertone was all the rage.

How to do Makeup from the 90s

A tip for achieving that 90s look is to start with a matte foundation. Then apply a deep black eyeliner. Top off with a neutral subtle brown eye shadow. Starting light on the lid, using a darker shade on the crease and finally a lighter shade on the brow bone. For the cheeks, apply a peachy colored blush. And for the lips, choose a lipstick with an orange under-tone.

How to get that grunge girl bed-head look from the 90s

To get the grunge hairstyle, apply gel to towel-dry hair, running your fingers through until you can pull your hair up to stand on end. Blow-dry out a bit of dampness, making sure to put your hand flat on your hair and swirl your hair around so it doesn't set in one direction. Next, take smaller sections at a time and spray with hair spray. Run your fingers through from the nape of your neck up to the top of the head so hair stands on end. Twist the ends as you pull sections up and out, creating cowlicks. Create wispy bangs by pulling some sections forward and tucking the rest back.

Style Icons of the 1990s

These fashion icons each brought something different to the decade:

• Jennifer Aniston - who could forget the "Rachel" haircut from Friends
• Meg Ryan - everyone wished for her short choppy, tousled hair
• Gwen Stefani - her highly personalized style was a true reflection of the 90s
• Cindy Crawford - she exuded feminine sex-appeal all the way down to her mole

Into the 21st Century

As the population grows ever older, the urge to remain youthful blossoms and the anti-ageing cream becomes king. Much cosmetic surgery is increasingly accepted as risk free. Quick-fix treatments, such as collagen lip implants and 'Botox' anti-wrinkle injections, can be performed in a lunchtime; while other treatments, such as facial skin peels and electric wave therapy, are increasingly popular.

Fashions in the 2000 Era and beyond: Hair & Beauty tips

Styles tend to resurface every twenty years. So right now in 2007, we're seeing a lot of 80s fashions coming back. Thankfully, when trends do return, they appear in a less severe, more softened form. In general, the current trends call for a look more customized to the individuals wearing them. Women are more likely to seek out makeup and hair that's best for their face shape and skin tone than just blindly following the fads.

Hair styles in the 2000s

In this decade, natural, well-cut hair is trendy. Women now understand that getting a good cut allows them to look their best with less fuss. Hairstyles tend to be softer, less flashy and with fewer frills than earlier periods. A popular cut in recent years has been the shag style, with its low maintenance chic.

Makeup trends in the 2000s

Baking oneself under the hot UV rays for hours is frowned up. Instead, we now have the benefit of great, easy to use self-tanners. Eyebrow shaping has become important too. Proper shaping can even go as far as giving you the appearance of a mini facelift. Lips are soft and shiny, with gloss applied for an elegant evening look.

Makeup tips for that 2000s look

The idea behind the styles of this current decade is to personalize the beauty regiment to fit the person. No one trend pervades the landscape. Instead, we do what flatters our personal face structure and skin tone. The only rule to keep in mind is to make sure your eyes and lips don't compete. So, if you have strong eye makeup, tone down the lips. And if your lips are making a loud statement, make the eye makeup a little quieter. No one wants to look like a clown.

Hair styling tips for the 2000s

It's all about personal fit. Start by finding the right shape hair for your face. For instance, if you have a low forehead, try a hairstyle that's high in the crown. You'll better balance out your face. Or if you have a thin face, sweep your hair back to add fullness to your face. Of course it all starts with a good hair cut. A proper cut totally changes the way your hair sits. A good cut will help you more than halfway towards the look you want, without having to wrangle it into submission. What's also important is keeping your hair healthy. Make sure to brush it and keep it well nourished. High protein foods rich in Vitamin B are great for your hair and scalp.

Style Icons

In this decade, we mostly look towards entertainers to fashionably show us the way.

• Beyoncé - always sports a stunning look perfect for her face and skin tone
• Jennifer Lopez - a classic and elegant ambassador of style
• Sarah Jessica Parker - women live vicariously through her character "Carrie" on Sex in the City